From Set Wear to Street Style: The Art of Mixing Utility with Glam
Embrace the effortless cool of military-inspired fashion—because who says functional can’t be fabulous?
Good morning, my friends. I’m a day late here. My apologies.
This weekend, I had the thrill of stepping back into production mode, orchestrating a fantastic comedy day for my husband’s new venture. Though exhausting, it felt amazing to play producer again and laugh my butt off in the process. I love bringing people together and creating a vibe—a joy that sticks with you. Having spent so many years in production, I find it’s a skill that translates well to everything, from work to life, and it was great fun.
Being back in that world got me thinking about set wear and the unique style of production work. Have you ever worked in production? PAs often have the coolest gear—a mix of mostly black, a little industrial, a style that says, “I mean business, but I’m not a corporate sod.”
One of my go-to resources for this kind of attire, which I deeply love, is an army/navy store. Growing up in Philadelphia, we had I. Goldberg in the city, and I’d wander there after art school, treating myself to finds like army pants, jackets, and even cool canteen bags to use as purses. These days, I continue the tradition here in New York with Dave’s in Chelsea and OK Uniform in Tribeca. I love how an industrial or military piece can make an outfit feel cooler and less precious. Jenna Lyons (I know, I know, I talk about her constantly) is an expert at this look. Come to think of it, she dresses like she is on set most of the time, which I love. PS I know this look is nothing new, but it’s a ubiquitous part of my wardrobe, and I wanted to share with you how to add it to yours, if you are so inclined.
For instance, I recently scored an incredible black army jacket (with a spirit band moniker) at a flea market upstate called Stormville. It’s perfectly oversized, and I’m obsessed with styling it alongside leather pants or belted with a sequined pencil skirt for the holiday season. There’s something effortlessly cool about it, and I love wearing it. I also adore my Mango barn jacket, its stiff, uniform-like structure, and my Madeworn army jacket with Rolling Stones patches that always turn heads, particularly on men. PS I’ve long since cared about turning male heads, but you get the point.
The key to wearing utilitarian pieces is pairing them thoughtfully with the rest of your wardrobe—there is no need to go “full metal jacket” head-to-toe military. Bonus points for pairing a cool army jacket or baggy pants with something feminine, like a silky top or skirt. That femme/masc juxtaposition is everything for creating a unique look. Plus, many of these pieces are reasonably priced and incredibly versatile.
They are also functional, affordable, and sexy in their simplicity and lack of pretense. They also telegraph confidence, the kind that’s a bit rebellious in its dismissal of designerism. (Yet somehow they find ways to interpret these types of clothes for the every person and bring them to a privileged few.)
Here are some pieces I’d buy in a heartbeat, along with my styling tips:
First up, a liner jacket: You’re all familiar with this type of jacket, popularized by brands like The Frankie Shop. But I prefer the real deal, paired with everything from boyfriend jeans and a cashmere sweater to an Alex Mill jumpsuit.
Next, fatigue pants: These are not camo, but you could rock those, too. A friend of mine had some army pants from Lee that I could have sworn were R13, which were amazing. Designers like Nili Lotan have riffed on this style for years, but I love the authentic version with a silky top and blazer or a sweatshirt with high-heeled booties or pumps. It's so chic.
Vintage workwear: These vintage pants in “Bill Cunningham blue” are cool and classic.
A vintage jumpsuit: This olive dream is perfect for a dressed-up look with heels, worn low-cut with a hint of bra and layered with gold necklaces.
This one is in the best Bill C. blue and is great for a pick-me-up when the weather gets dreary. Or if you a real bold one, try this.
Tailored pants: Sharp tailoring like this is stunning with a tank and a Chanel-inspired lady jacket. It’s effortlessly sexy.
Jacket with streetwear vibes: This piece leans more “streetwear” than military, but I love it. Pair it with a long white button-down and tailored trousers or jeans for an understated yet cool look.
A Helmet bag: I have a soft spot for a good helmet bag. Because, incidentally, it’s also a great laptop bag. This one is super fun, while this one is more “authentic”. No notes.
For what lies beneath, let’s check out my favorite underwear brand, Odobody. Their tank and brief sets are dreamy for sleeping. Trust me. Maybe I’ve been watching too much of The Lioness, or maybe I need to wear cotton to bed all year round, but I’m all about these military/workwear vibes. They’re the perfect combo of hardworking yet laid-back—a look to aspire to.
So, if you’re feeling the call of rugged, ready-for-anything style, maybe it’s time to add a little edge to your wardrobe. Whether you're channeling your inner producer or want to look effortlessly cool, these pieces bring a touch of gritty goodness to any look. Now, go forth and find your army jacket, mix it up with some sparkle, and step out like you mean business... but in the most stylish way possible. If you think this is a reaction to last week’s news, it’s not. I’m just seeking a heaping helping of no fucking nonsense while marching to the beat of my own drum, and that’s that.
(Small footnote: If you are interested in a post where I show how the fashion world translates these pieces, let me know).
https://www.thequalityedit.com/articles/fall-fashion-what-would-jenna-lyons-wear
Military inspired is the best — love this! I wrote a “what would Jenna Lyons wear” piece for The Quality Edit last year and gave some great recos based on this look (i, too, adore her and refer to her too often!! As suspected, she was a gem about kind feedback of the article, which made my day.) I recently bought the J. Crew men’s field jacket that replicates so many surplus stores offerings from my youth spent in Baltimore.